Athens — a complete, welcome, and much-needed contrast to our relative lassitude on Symi — never disappoints. After we visited years ago, we gravitated primarily towards Keramikos, a trendy, SoHo-like enclave. More recently we tried the downtown area. This trip, for the first time, we stayed in Kolonaki. It’s like Pacific Heights in San Francisco: great location, relatively posh, inhabitants living ostentatiously large. While not our ideal permanent vibe, it’s super cool to visit.

Storefronts embody aesthetic perfection, carefully and particularly designed and outfitted, starting with the windows and extending seamlessly to the interiors. Restaurants follow suit and are both pricy and divine; every meal beyond on every level. The entire neighborhood is 100% intentional. You might be broke when you leave, but you’ll go out wistfully satisfied. 

The landscape is also dramatic and breathtaking. We took a hike for the first time up Lycabettus Hill, and our (somewhat strained) efforts were rewarded with a breathtaking 360-degree view of the city. I’ll give us a pass on not tackling it before, as undertaking it in the summer heat would most certainly have been life-shortening. In October, however, it was not only totally doable but actually pleasant. 

It’s the kind of place that makes you want to indulge. Not indefinitely sustainable, but delightfully delicious for a splurge. And as we weren’t looking for a long term commitment, we thoroughly enjoyed our quick and decadent stay en route to our next rather spontaneously planned destination: Bordeaux. Flaky, crusty baguette with delicious butter and exquisite wine … On arrive!