We had an enjoyable stay in the Bay Area before heading to our home away from home. This time we flew straight to Thessaloniki, a city that never gets old. Part of the reason is literal, since it hosts Greece’s largest university (Aristotle) and is therefore full of students. But beyond that, it is 100% alive, and both endearingly and unapologetically raw. Intoxicating scents of spice and confection are juxtaposed against a seemingly infinite backdrop of picturesque outdoor tables, lively conversation, and clinking glasses. The waterfront is incongruous and at the same time somehow perfectly placed, lending a sigh of relief to the near palpable pulse of the city. The sky is bright blue despite the almost defiant prevalence of non-electric cars and generous quantities of cigar and cigarette smoke. Graffiti is pervasive, but taggers mar neither beautiful buildings nor their brethren’s art painted on metal storefront gates. Saturday nights are without fail full-on, with a surreal quiet that follows on Sunday mornings, often as not punctuated by post-party, loudly heated exchanges.

It was the first time we’d been in Greece this late in the year, and it was odd to don gloves, scarves, and even the occasional coat. We saw music and dance performances at the Thessaloniki Concert Hall (lovely venue with multiple auditoriums), rode bicycles beside and beyond the water, hosted my dear friend and freshman college roommate, took Greek lessons (because of course we had to fall in love with a country that has not only an incredibly challenging language but also a different flipping alphabet), cooked and ate some incredible meals, joined an amazing gym with top-notch equipment and classes (including my beloved Pilates reformer), checked out the graffiti and photography museums, did one (just one!) puzzle, and … la pièce de résistance … played some pickleball! Pickleball is in da house! It’s an indoor facility and by no means perfect, but it’s well and enthusiastically attended, and happening every Monday night from 7 – 10ish p.m. With that, it could not get any better. Officially.

One more thing to love about Thessaloniki is its airport, making travel super convenient and — especially to other European cities — relatively inexpensive. Hence, after six weeks there, we boarded a plane to la belle France.